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Shalimar Philtre de Parfum Guerlain

For the first time in many years, I recognized it. Shalimar Philtre de Parfum Guerlain is a distinctly authentic Shalimar, without the sticky, sweet toffee and burnt rubber that have permeated the great, long-suffering fragrance over the past 20 years.

Philtre de Parfum is most reminiscent of an early '80s eau de toilette with its powerful animalic undertones, but slightly over-shaken, as if it were a genuine vintage bottle, arrived from overseas, frozen and shaken in a parcel.

It joyfully greets its new owner with prickly green lemons and fizzy lavender soda, and lingers on the bright side for a long time. The darkness doesn't rise immediately. Drop by drop, a little shit is gradually added to the joyful citrus bubbling. Powerful amber with fecal tones, a snuggly, sleepy warmth, a touch of wet wool and patchouli. It's strange and scary in words, but in reality, it's pure sex, as depicted in "fur" perfumes of the 1920s and 1930s.

I missed the vanilla in Shalimar Philtre de Parfum, which softens the mating cry of a red deer. It's there, but it comes in timidly after the amber. A bit of a dessert, you might say.

I'm not entirely sure who Guerlain released this for. It's complex, strange, beautiful, and very vintage. If you want to get closer to what Shalimar really was, you should definitely try it.

Shalimar Philtre de Parfum, Guerlain,

Thierry Wasser

Lavender, lemon, bergamot, iris, jasmine, rose, patchouli, vanilla, tolu balsam.

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