Cigno Nero

Cigno Nero is Emily Chinigo's third niche project, once again dedicated to mysticism, magic, and spiritual quests. Each Cigno Nero fragrance is a talisman, an olfactory image of a mythical creature imbued with magical powers.

The symbol of Forza Suprema is a dragon. This powerful and virtually invulnerable creature, in Cigno Nero's version, is not at all frightening. It breathes not deadly flames, but the sweet, blue smoke of Indian incense sticks. Instead of knights and their horses for breakfast, our pocket dragon prefers hot chocolate with Mexican spices, dried raspberries, vanilla, and roasted nuts. It also strongly reminds me of something resinous and niche from the early 2000s. Perhaps not even anything specific, but a whole shelf of spicy, woody fragrances from Serge Lutens and Comme des Garcons of that era.

Forza Suprema Cigno Nero, ginger, neroli, brgamot, leather, labdanum, cocoa, nutmeg, tar, olibanum, vetiver, cashmeran, musk.

Dolce Canto is a mermaid. You understand this immediately, because everything that happens in this fragrance happens to a person standing knee-deep in seawater. You smile at the sun and breathe in the sea, you drink a cold compote of small yellow apples and apricots and breathe in the sea, melted ice cream runs down your hands, and you stand in shorts wet from salty spray and breathe in the sea. Dolce Canto is a fresh aquatic compote, but not as simple as it seems. It truly contains that sea we all miss.

Dolce Canto Cigno Nero, apple chips, blackcurrant, fin, ginger, cardamom, jasmine, musk, sandalwood, cedar

Anima Libera – the winged horse Pegasus, the talisman of poets, dreamers, and creative people. In perfume form, it's as fragile and fickle as your lyrical poetry. I love the very lively bergamot with green tea and small red berries, but all this beauty lasts for a maximum of 30 minutes. Then the formality of a crisp white shirt sets in, and it gets boring.

Anima Libera Cigno Nero, mate, bergamot, pink pepper, white iris, mineral notes, jasmine, musk, ambroxan, cedar.

Pura Essenza – unicorn. This talisman of innocence, purity, and universal love unexpectedly smells like a vibrant patchouli-fruity chypre with a rich blend of resins and spices, a full tray of sweet and sour dried apricots and prunes with raisins. Lush, slightly powdery, and haughty, it recalls three fruity Chanel chypres at once—Coco Mademoiselle, Chance, and 31 Rue Cambon—as if it were their younger cousin.

Pura Essenza Cigno Nero, jasmine, pink pepper, Sichuan pepper, leather, styrax, oud, benzoin, musk.

Arabba Feniche—fireproof, indestructible, and evernyl phoenix. A cozy and unexpectedly transparent gourmand fragrance with a multi-fruity, tart jelly and amber. There's almost no sugar here, and the evernil is surprisingly discreet, like the warm breath of someone sleeping next to you. I can almost picture lithe Instagram beauties in beige tracksuits in Araba Feniche.

Arabba Feniche Cigno Nero: Mango, green apple, peach, plum, coconut, mandarin, strawberry, blackcurrant, bergamot, green leaves, magnolia, jasmine, lily of the valley, heliotrope, orchid, tuberose, rose, orange blossom, sugar, praline, patchouli, white musk, sandalwood, amber, cedar, and, apparently, the entire periodic table.

Cigno Nero has a lightweight bottle, a high concentration—all perfumes—and a rather whimsical box that doubles as an eyeglass case. It's a bit of a surprise, but many appreciate this practicality. But most importantly, the entire collection is psychologically very affordable, which is a big plus these days.