Estee Lauder Desert Eden, Paradise Moon, Blushing Sands, Radiant Mirage, Sensuous Stars, Dream Dusk, Infinity Sky

Admit it, you've been waiting for something new from Estée Lauder for a long time. Lately, it felt like all the creative energy was being poured into Tom Ford or By Kilian, or anywhere but the main, foundational brand that started it all. But Estée Lauder hasn't been forgotten either. Eight new fragrances in elegant bottles are already hitting stores and making waves.

I was captivated by the flirty rose with the sweetness of lychee and strawberry Turkish delight, Desert Eden. On the skin, it reveals woody warmth and metallic tones of saffron, while the transparent, 100,500-meter trail reveals silvery incense smoke. If you're looking for authentic oriental roses, you can easily find something hotter, but Desert Eden is perfect for our climate.

Desert Eden by Estee Lauder,

Anne Flipo

Rose, sandalwood, incense

Sitting by the river, watching perfume critics float by, and literally feeling with every breath how Paradise Moon transforms from apricot shampoo into apricot compote, from compote into a handful of thin-skinned white apricots, the apricot skin into creamy silky suede, and the soft suede into the short but very thick fur of a snow leopard.

That's exactly how blooming osmanthus smells in Shanghai: apricots, a touch of soap, and leather. Or at least that's how perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux saw it.

Osmanthus is currently one of the main perfume trends. Some emphasize its animalic, leathery, and corporeal aspects, while others, like Estee Lauder, emphasize its freshness and purity.

Paradise Moon Estee Lauder,

Rodrigo Flores-Roux

Osmanthus, cistus labdanum, leather.

Blushing Sands is perhaps the first fragrance in the collection that niche perfume connoisseurs should get to know. It's completely free of florals and veal-like softness, but it does feature green and oily vetiver, burnt gunpowder, salt, iris, and tiny black bird cherry berries. Blushing Sands thunders down on you like lightning, but fades just as decisively and quickly to a light gray-green. It fades, but never ceases to be strange and slightly dangerous.

Blushing Sands Estee Lauder,

Clément Gavarry

Pink pepper, vetiver, musk

Radiant Mirage will delight fans of Tom Ford's work. Snow-white morning jasmine and the washed-out whiteness of neroli, the relaxing coolness of white marble, powder, earthy gray patchouli, and a drop of evernil. The scent is light and impenetrably dense, like fog, and its name suits it. A whispering scent, but its voice lingers for a long time.

Radiant Mirage Estee Lauder,

Quentin Bisch

Jasmine, sandalwood, patchouli

The scent of early morning. White tea with a drop of coconut milk and the delicate poplin of a crisp white shirt. Tender Light is created for lovers of modern freshness, from which all corporeality has been removed as unnecessary.

Tender Light Estee Lauder,

Shyamala Maisondieu

Tea, bergamot, iris

Sensuous Stars is a dense, powdery, and even slightly lipstick-like modern chypre with patchouli, tobacco, and fragrant plum jam, cooked to the point of marmalade. This and Dream Dusk are the closest to what Estee Lauder currently releases in its core line. I think Sensuous Stars will appeal to fans of Modern Muse and its flankers.

Sensuous Stars Estee Lauder,

Amandine Clerc-Marie

Lavender, plum, iris

I really liked Dream Dusk the first day I tried it, but in reality, I can't stand such cheerful and naive scents for long. Fresh rose, peony, freesia, and tart currant combine to create a vibrant (even too vibrant) compote.

Dream Dusk Estee Lauder,

Jean-Marc Chaillan

Sakura, blackcurrant buds, geranium

Infinity Sky is the most French scent in the collection and will surely be very popular in Europe. Amber, chestnuts, maple syrup in the clear Parisian air. Fine, but sweet for me.

Infinity Sky Estee Lauder,

Dominique Ropion

Sichuan pepper, vanilla, leather, wood

What to expect from the new Estee Lauder collection? If you've tried everything and more in niche perfumery, there won't be much to surprise you here. Perhaps the exquisite craftsmanship of the fragrances and their comfort, even if you don't like them. I also didn't find any references from the past. The new fragrances are like a bridge from the present Estee Lauder to the future, which has been quite clearly outlined for us. We'll have to prepare and get used to it.